How to build a gravel path that stays put (with quantities)
· 6 min read
A gravel path is the cheapest hard path there is and the one most often done badly: a bag of pea gravel raked onto grass, gone into the lawn by spring. Done properly it is three things, edging, a compacted base and a thin top layer, and it lasts for years with a rake and a top-up. This is the job in order, with the tonnage worked out so you know before you start that a 3 x 20 ft path is 0.7 tons of crushed stone and 0.5 tons of pea gravel, about 21 bags of the top layer if you carry it home.
Before you start
Mark the route with a hose or rope and walk it for a day: paths people actually use are the ones that follow the line they would cut across the lawn anyway. Check where the water goes; a gravel path in a low spot becomes a stream bed, so either raise it or put a drain under it (the French drain guide covers that). Then decide the width: 3 ft for a side path, 4 ft for the main route to the door.
How much you need
3 inches of crushed stone base and 2 inches of pea gravel, with 5% extra for compaction, at about 1.5 tonnes per cubic metre. The dig column is the soil you take out, which has to go somewhere.
| Path | Base (tons) | Base (cu yd) | Pea gravel (tons) | Pea gravel (bags) | Dig out (cu ft) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3 x 10 ft | 0.37 | 0.29 | 0.25 | 11 | 13 |
| 3 x 20 ft | 0.74 | 0.58 | 0.49 | 21 | 25 |
| 3 x 30 ft | 1.11 | 0.87 | 0.74 | 32 | 38 |
| 3 x 50 ft | 1.84 | 1.46 | 1.23 | 53 | 63 |
| 4 x 20 ft | 0.98 | 0.78 | 0.66 | 28 | 33 |
| 4 x 30 ft | 1.47 | 1.17 | 0.98 | 42 | 50 |
| 4 x 50 ft | 2.46 | 1.94 | 1.64 | 70 | 83 |
Bagged material is fine up to about a ton; above that a bulk delivery or bulk bags cost less per ton and save your back. For the 4 x 50 ft path that is 4.1 tons in all, one small truck. The walkway guide has single-layer tables and the metric version; the gravel calculator takes any size.
Step 1: dig out and set the edging
Cut the turf along the marked lines and dig out 5 inches, a little more where the ground is soft. Keep the bottom roughly level across the width with a slight fall along the path if it slopes. Set the edging now, on both sides, with its top at the finished gravel level: steel pinned every 3 ft, timber on stakes, or bricks on a mortar bed. Pack soil back against the outside of the edging.
Step 2: fabric, if you need it
On clay, on ground that stays wet, or where the lawn was full of weeds, roll a woven geotextile into the trench and up the sides of the edging. On free-draining, firm ground skip it; the compacted base does the work. Either way, do not put fabric between the base and the top layer.
Step 3: the base, in one lift, compacted hard
Spread the crushed stone to about 4 inches loose, rake it level, wet it lightly and run a plate compactor over it twice, the second pass at right angles to the first. It should settle to about 3 inches and be hard enough that a boot heel leaves no mark. On a short path a hand tamper works; take your time, the base is the whole job.
Step 4: the top layer, thin
Spread the pea gravel to 2 inches, rake it level, and walk the length of it a few times so it beds into the base. Resist the urge to add more: a thin layer over a hard base feels firm, a thick layer rolls. Keep two or three bags for topping up the ends and any low spots after the first winter.
Step 5: looking after it
Rake it once a season, pull the odd weed, and top up an inch where it thins. Every few years, if it has gone soft, take the top layer off, recompact the base and put fresh gravel down. A path built this way does not need rebuilding.
Building paths for other people?
The calculator gives you the material list. The Pro quote builder turns it into a quote with your labour, the edging, delivery and margin, printed with your logo, so a path is priced in the time it takes to walk it.
Frequently asked questions
- What kind of gravel is best for a walkway?
- Two kinds, one for each layer. The base is crushed stone with fines (3/4 inch minus, road base, crusher run, MOT type 1 in the UK), because the sharp edges and dust lock together when compacted. The top is what you want to see and walk on: pea gravel, 3/8 inch crushed granite, decomposed granite or a decorative chip. Never put rounded pebbles in the base; they roll.
- How deep should a gravel walkway be?
- 3 inches of compacted base plus 2 inches of top layer, so dig out about 5 inches and a little more on soft ground. The top layer is deliberately thin: pea gravel deeper than 2 inches feels like walking on a beach.
- How much gravel do I need for a 3 ft wide path?
- Per 10 ft of path: about 0.37 tons of base and 0.25 tons of pea gravel (11 bags). So 20 ft is 0.7 and 0.5 tons, 50 ft is 1.8 and 1.2. The walkway guide has the full tables; the calculator does any width.
- Do I need landscape fabric under gravel?
- Under the base on soft, wet or weedy soil: yes, a woven geotextile stops the stone sinking into the mud and keeps the layers separate. Between the base and the top layer: no, the top should key into the base. Fabric is not a weed barrier for long; seeds land on top of the gravel and grow in the dust, so plan on a rake and the odd pull.
- Can I build a gravel path without edging?
- You can, and it will be 4 ft wide within a year as the gravel migrates. Steel edging is the neatest and lasts longest; pressure-treated timber is cheapest; bricks or pavers on a mortar bed look best and double as a mowing strip. Whatever you choose, set it before the base goes in and pack the base tight against it.
- Can I lay pavers or stepping stones in a gravel path?
- Yes: bed them on the compacted base with an inch of sand, set flush with the finished gravel level, and fill the gravel around them. The paver base guide has the sand and stone quantities. Stepping stones set on top of pea gravel rock and sink; they need to sit on the base.
Figures are planning estimates from the calculators on this site and typical product data. Check the yield, size or coverage printed on what you buy, round up, and follow your local building code for structural work.